Frankenstein Fashion: How David Bowie and Prince Inspired Victor’s Iconic Costume Design

Guillermo del Toro has teamed up once again with “Crimson Peak” costume designer Kate Hawley to shape the visual aesthetic of his new project, “Frankenstein.”

Upon receiving the project, Hawley, who is passionate about romanticism and has a background in art history, immediately plunged into the original text for inspiration.

Hawley shared her mixed feelings about the collaboration, stating, “Embarking on this project with Guillermo was both exhilarating and daunting.”

In “Frankenstein,” Oscar Isaac portrays a gifted yet arrogant scientist who creates a Creature (played by Jacob Elordi) in an ambitious attempt to defeat death. The story explores the repercussions of his actions and raises the question of who the real monster is.

The film features Mia Goth as Elizabeth and includes Ralph Ineson as Professor Krempe with Christoph Waltz as Harlander. The ensemble cast also comprises Felix Kammerer, Lars Mikkelsen, David Bradley, Christian Covery, and Charles Dance as Victor’s father.

Set during the 1850s amidst the Crimean War, Hawley explains that del Toro insisted on a grand and expansive setting for the film.

Hawley delves into the creative process behind the character designs.

Victor Frankenstein

Del Toro provided numerous references to aid Hawley’s design for Victor, drawing from modern icons like David Bowie and Prince, as mentioned by Isaac himself.

Hawley notes that Victor’s early life reflects the Enlightenment period, closely aligning with the era of Mary Shelley.

As the narrative progresses to the 1850s, Hawley broadened the scope to include a blend of historical and modern elements, influenced by the technological advancements of the war era.

Victor, depicted as an aristocrat, initially appears in a theater presenting his invention. Hawley aimed to convey his story through his attire, highlighting the aged, luxurious velvet he wore, signaling his dwindling wealth yet residual nobility.

Upon meeting Harlander, Victor’s style shifts to more flamboyant attire as he enjoys newfound wealth.

Elizabeth’s Wedding Dress

The design of Elizabeth’s wedding dress was paramount, linking significant narrative elements. It was one of the first pieces Hawley created, acknowledging the pressure of aligning it with the iconic image of Frankenstein’s bride and the Victorian setting.

As Elizabeth’s story unfolds, her attire increasingly mirrors the Creature’s world, especially evident in her wedding dress. The bodice reflects the Swiss style of the era, with skeletal-like ribbons that resonate with the Creature’s thematic elements.

Hawley also infused botanical and natural motifs into Elizabeth’s costumes, using an X-ray inspired print for her blue dress, which required extensive layering to achieve the desired rich color for a pivotal night scene.

Partnership with Tiffany’s

Hawley describes working with Tiffany’s to design Elizabeth’s jewelry as a dream come true, accessing the legendary archives to select pieces that complement the film’s aesthetic.

She highlighted the Wade Necklace, adorned with over 40 carats of diamonds, and the Louis Comfort Tiffany Scarab necklace as key pieces that enriched the film’s narrative.

The Creature

The Creature’s wardrobe evolves significantly throughout the film. Initially appearing almost childlike, he gradually adopts garments that reflect his experiences of warmth and love. A notable item is a coat he takes from a deceased Crimean War soldier, symbolizing his ongoing transformation and the lingering presence of the past.

Hawley closely collaborated with prosthetics artist Mike Hill to ensure the Creature’s clothing harmonized with his physical evolution, emphasizing the thematic resonance of his ensemble.

Watch the video above.